From Summer Skiing to Year-Round Stays
For decades, Ásgarður Valley in Iceland's Central Highlands hosted a summer ski school where Icelanders trained on snowfields that once blanketed the slopes. That operation closed in 2000 when the snow retreated. The site stood quiet until 2023, when Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll opened in its place, transforming the location into a hotel, lodge, and geothermal bathing complex inside a nature reserve.
The property sits at the edge of Kerlingarfjöll, designated a protected reserve in 2020. The team behind the Retreat at Blue Lagoon developed Highland Base, keeping vintage photographs of skiers in 1960s alpine gear on the walls as a nod to the valley's earlier life. The landscape remains the same: rhyolite hills, volcanic ridges, and the Ásgarðsá River threading through the valley floor.
Rooms, Lodges, and Campsites in a Protected Valley
Highland Base offers accommodation across four categories: 46 hotel rooms and two suites in the main building, six standalone lodges, seven A-frame huts, and a riverside campsite. Lodge rates for the 2027 season start at US$1,097 per night, while hotel rooms begin at US$502. The campsite operates from 15 June to 30 September, charging from US$25 per adult per night.
The lodges feature floor-to-ceiling windows that frame views of the valley and surrounding peaks. The design is pared-back Nordic, with the window serving as the room's focal point rather than conventional entertainment. From inside, guests watch the river flow and the light shift across the mountains without leaving their beds.
Geothermal Baths and Guided Hikes
The Highland Baths sit near the riverbed, fed by geothermal mineral water that holds heat even as temperatures drop. The facility includes a cold plunge, sauna, and bar. Guests share the pools with travellers from multiple countries, all drawn to the same combination of hot water and mountain views.
Guided hikes lead into Hveradalir, the "Valley of Hot Springs," where steam rises from vents and the ground is painted in mineral yellows and reds. The crust around the thermal features is fragile, so marked paths and boardwalks keep foot traffic off unstable ground. In October, when summer visitors have left, groups often have the valley to themselves.
Highland Base also runs e-bike and buggy tours through the Hveradalir area. Weather in the Central Highlands shifts quickly; snow flurries in the morning can give way to clear skies by afternoon. After outdoor activities, the property serves a waffle bar daily from 3:00 to 5:00 PM in the main restaurant.
Self-guided hiking is an option for those who prefer to explore independently. Staff provide trail advice and current conditions before guests set out. The property rents hiking boots, poles, crampons, and waterproof clothing, though bringing personal gear suited to volatile weather is recommended. Routes range from short loops to all-day treks past volcanic peaks, glacier viewpoints, and waterfalls.
The Only Restaurant for Miles
Highland Base's restaurant is the sole dining option in the area. The à la carte dinner menu rotates between summer and winter, featuring Icelandic lamb, cod, roasted vegetables, and beef with mashed potatoes. Desserts include combinations such as dill and apple sorbet over white chocolate and coconut mousse.
Breakfast is a buffet included for hotel and lodge guests and available for purchase to others. The kitchen prepares takeaway breakfast and lunch boxes for day-long hikes.
Shoulder-Season Light and Aurora Nights
September and October offer a balance of daylight for hiking and dark skies for northern lights. The Central Highlands have no light pollution, so when the aurora appears, it fills the sky without competition. Weather remains unpredictable, and clear nights are not guaranteed, but the absence of artificial light makes any sighting more vivid.
Getting There by 4×4 or Super Jeep
The drive from Reykjavík to Highland Base covers 124 miles and takes roughly 3.5 hours, much of it on gravel. From Gullfoss, travellers take Route 35 north into the highlands, then turn east onto the F347 for the final stretch. The road has improved over time but still requires a 4×4 vehicle approved for F-roads.
Highland Base operates bus transfers on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays in June and September, and daily in July and August. From October, when mountain roads are no longer maintained, access is by super jeep only, with professional drivers handling the route. Transfers in run on Thursdays and Fridays; return transfers depart Saturdays and Sundays. The property advises booking departing flights at least 24 hours after checkout to account for weather delays.
The Central Highlands remain one of Iceland's least-travelled regions, a mix of glaciers, lava fields, and rhyolite formations crossed by gravel roads. Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll places visitors inside that terrain, with infrastructure that keeps the valley's history visible while adapting it for a different kind of use.
